Friday, November 23, 2007

muchas cosas!

Yes, yes, it has been a while again. Sorry! But the good news is...I WILL BE HOME IN TWO WEEKS!!! I'm super stoked!

THE DAY OF THE DEAD
So the last time I posed anything it was just before el día de muertos. Many people traveled to Pátzcuaro in Michoacan. Apparently they have an island where for this holiday it is lit up only by candles and is very beautiful. Unfortunately, I think most of our students didn't plan very well for their trip and arrived in the town too late to get to the island.

The Day of the Dead is held on November 1 and 2; the first day to remember children that have died, and the second for everyone else. I've decided that I love this holiday. It was a bit difficult to participate in the holiday since I am not a part of a family here in Mexico (unless you count the two shots of tequila I had in May that made me Rebekah Turnbaugh-Rodriguez...jejeje), but just the idea behind it is beautiful. One could assume that with a name like "Day of the Dead" that it would be very mournful and dreary, but I did not observe that to be true. Rather it is a time to remember those that have passed and spend time as a family. According to the ancient religions, this was a day when the spirits of the dead returned to earth. And yet, you see images of the Virgin Mary during this time as well so it seems to be a mixture of both ancient religions and Catholicism...as I am learning have not been so very separate historically in Mexico.

This day also seems to acknowledge death as much as a part of life as the part when we are alive here on this earth. But there is also an element of fun in it too. For instance, my Spanish professor told us that people write letters or poems to their friends predicting how they will die as a joke and they are always funny. I had ambitions to do that for my Spanish class but they quickly went away. Additionally, there are these skeletal characters called calaveras that are all over the place. They were originally created by an artist named José Guadalupe Posada, his most famous being Catrina. His original intent was to show that the wealthy, in spite of all their pomp and circumstance, are just as vulnerable to death as the rest of us, but there is also an element of whimsy to them I think.

Anyhow, I decided to stay local for the celebrations. John and I headed to a cemetery in La Cañanda, a neighboring town. One of our professors grew up there and recommended that we visit. Families on this day go to the grave sites of their loved ones and decorate them and then spend the day talking about their family members and remembering them. I was told that some people will sleep there too. As John and I looked around (trying not to stand out too much as we took our photos, which I believe we probably failed at) we did not observe anyone that was sad or crying. Albeit, some people looked pretty bored since I imagine that they had been there all day, but other than that people we enjoying themselves.

After a few hours at the cemetery we headed to el centro to see the festivities there. We asked to be dropped at the plaza where the huge altar was...and goodness it was huge! It was made for two men, one of whom was Epigmenio Gonzalez (which is also the street that the Tec is on) but there were too many people around for me to be able to sit with my dictionary and read the sign about them.

Anyhow, families also make altars to their loved ones in their homes. I didn't see any until we went to a winery that Sunday (more on that later) and then later at a friend's host family's house, excepting the one in el centro. Bridgid and Eric joked about building one in front of Doozo Sushi, our favorite sushi place down the street from the Tec that was mysteriously closed for a long while (which I am happy to report will be re-opening in December).

El centro was very festive with street vendors galore! I had my first elote (finally!), well, actually it was elote in a cup which I can't ever remember the name for that. For those of you who don't know what this incredible food is, it is corn-on-the-cob smothered in mayo, cheese, chile powder, and lime. Mmmm! We spent the rest of the evening just wandering around and looking at everything, running into various clumps of internationals, and just enjoying ourselves.

I MISS WINE
One thing that I really miss here is wine, 1) because I can't have alcohol here in the Res; and, 2) wine is not as popular here as tequila and beer. But my Spanish professor, being the wonderfully-cultured man that he is, told us about a wine and music (jazz and blues) festival that was going on that weekend at a nearby winery. Yay! Therefore we headed out that Sunday to a place that we weren't quite sure where it was. But we (Bri, Bridgid, Lily, Eric, and I) made it to a little town called Ezequiel Montes after about a 40 minute bus ride.

The winery is called Freixinet and was so very fabulous. We paid a 50 peso entry fee (less than $5) and received a wine glass and ticket for a free glass of wine. Thus, armed with our wine we went in. There was music, an art gallery, and all kinds of yummies to buy. After browsing the art, which mostly consisted of copies of famous pieces, we scouted out a table (which ended up being quite a prime location for amusement, or at least interesting occurrences) and then two or three at a time we went to get food for the group. It was quite scrumptious and we enjoyed our afternoon of decadence very much.

At one point I noticed a woman precisely in my line of sight who had had quite a lot of wine I presume throwing up a bit, wrapped in the arms of her husband who was not taking her to the bathroom. Yuk. Lily, in an effort to not watch this, stood up and faced me. After only a few minutes the woman behind me, who wasn't quite as far gone as the woman in front of me, fell flat on her back in her chair. Lily made no effort to restrain her laughter and I turned around only to see her being helped up by her husband. Later that woman and her husband came over to talk to us and they were really cool. Here is a picture of our group with our new friends. :-)

We headed back that evening on a very hot and crowded bus. Here is one final picture of Eric trying to look scary. It's too cute not to share.

THE END IS NEAR
The end of the semester is coming quickly. We are taking finals now actually and I just have one more on Tuesday: Spanish grammar.

Last week we had a nice graduation ceremony for the international students where we received diplomas and such. I also received an award for the most improved in Spanish among the group (it helps if you start the bottom I think ;-). I was very surprised and my professor was very proud.

Last week was also the final week of classes. On our last day of Spanish we all went to Sushi Itto to "review." We did some of that, but mostly just hung out. It was a lot of fun. Here is a picture of our class, except Soheil, who wasn't able to come. Around the table, starting on the left, is Maude from Canada, Nivardo (our professor), Sarah from CA, Jamie from Australia, me, Bridgid from CA, Gabrielle from Washington, John from CA, and Angela from CA. I'm quite sad that class is over, but fortunately we will have Nivardo as our professor for at least one class next semester.

THANKSGIVING--INTERNATIONAL STYLE
Since there are so many Americans here who would be missing Thanksgiving at home, I decided to organize a Thanksgiving potluck here that we could share with out international friends too. It ended up stressing me out a lot, buuuuut was a great night! We probably had nearly 40 people there representing places all over the world. Let's see, we had people from the US, Mexico, Spain, Germany, Belgium, Australia, France, England, Italy, and Ireland. The food was good and plentiful and the company superb.

We got a turkey cooked from Soriana since none of the students here either had access to an oven or experience doing such things. We also realized that no one knew how to carve a turkey either. Sarah, one of our vegetarians (who oddly enough eats chicken and turkey...don't ask me how that works), started out carving the turkey for us. Then Patrik from Germany took over and did a fine job and also stood there serving everyone. When I got there he asked me if I wanted something from "the foot or some of this white meat." jeje

It was so much fun explaining our traditions and food to everyone who had never had Thanksgiving before. And they were really excited to participate! I sat next to Pablo from Spain and told him that the cranberry sauce was for the turkey and that the whipped cream was for the pumpkin pie. Very cute.

The International Programs office was very nice in helping me set all this up and donated a bunch of water and soda for us. We held it on this terrace that is on the third floor of the library which ended up being a beautiful setting because the campus is decorated (and has been for a couple weeks) for Christmas.

Veronica Martinez, one of the program coordinators and a professor here, came for a bit and loved it! She was talking with Bri about how she would like to make it a campus-wide event next year and a time that the American students can share some of their culture with the rest of the students telling all about the food and such. She also said maybe it could be an all-English night to give the international students a break and give the Mexican students a chance to practice their English (because everyone here is learning it). That would be so cool if I was a catalyst for a new tradition here at the Tec! jaja!

More photos from Thanksgiving.

Well, that's about it from this part of the world. I shall be returning soon to your part and look forward to seeing everyone!!!

Thursday, November 1, 2007

¡tope!

RANDOM
OK, first some random updates before I get to the really good stuff. Please also be advised that my writing ability seems to be greatly impaired this evening, so be prepared for some atrocious stuff. I hope to catch it all before publishing, but I make no promises. This is also not going to be in consecutive order but rather in the order of the randomness in my head. My apologies in advance.

RANDOM EVENT: Yesterday a few of the guys and I decided to go to Chili's at one of the malls here because it sounded good. I'm sorry...I know I am in Mexico and shouldn't be going to Chili's, but it's the best American food in town and they have good margaritas too. :-) Anyhow, we had to take the elevator to leave.

This is a crazy elevator. One time Bridgid and I were in it and we couldn't find our floor. The buttons include some with numbers and some with letters, like the confusing GVC elevator. A guy got in and asked us if we were taking a trip in the elevator and when we said yes he told us that there were better things to see outside. Smart alec.

So we notice that the elevator has stopped, but the doors were not opening so I pushed the button to open them. This is what we saw. Not exactly where we were hoping to stop. We looked around the elevator puzzled as to what to do since there was no emergency phone. After Eric, joyfully yet fruitlessly, laid on the alarm for a few minutes, Paco insisted that no one could hear us. I decided it was time to call one of our friends to see if they could figure something out. That's when one of them remembered that they had seen Lily just before we got in the elevator. I called her to see if she could find help and we were eventually lowered to the lower level of the parking garage below the mall. We weren't about to go back in the elevator or try to tackle several flight of stairs so we took the big ramps that the cars take. In Mexico, interacting with cars is always a risk, but we made it out safely. :-)

This occurrence did not produce the romantic rescue that I had always imagined, including firemen or Keanu Reeves dropping from the ceiling to pull me out. It was, however, quite an entertaining diversion.

LA NOCHE DE BAILE: There are many extracurricular activities here at the Tec, with dancing being quite popular among the international students. A few weeks back all of the dance classes had a performance at one of the clubs in town. It didn't start until 11pm (strange) however, so I had time to go see my friend Jorge perform folklorico dancing at another performance on campus. Sorry for the dark photo. Jorge is the guy on the left-hand side of the picture, though it's just his back anyhow. He is one of my only Mexican friends here and a complete doll.

Afterwards I got ready to head out to a club for the first time in my life. When we got there the place was packed to the max and I didn't think I was going to be able to see any of it, but my friend Fanny that lives here in the Res came and said she found a spot for me, found two guys to help me up some stairs, and then proceeds to lead me to the stage. Ack! It gave me a great view of the crowd and the dancers, but EVERYBODY could see me! The dancing was great and it was so much fun to see all of my friends dancing! Here is a photo of Susie (on the right) and Jaylene (on the left) dancing salsa. I also couldn't resist snapping a shot of Charles' roommate, Daniel (in the middle). hehe

OAXACA
Last weekend a few of us girls took a road trip to Oaxaca, which is in the south of Mexico. It was just the type of spontaneous trip that I imagined taking while studying abroad! Bridgid asked me Thursday if I wanted to go with them and we left Querétaro that night at about 10pm. We rented a car, but with four girls and our gear, it was quite packed. The group consisted of Marthese, Bridgid, Lily, and myself.

The title of this post comes from driving during this trip. Tope is what is on road signs warning of a coming speed bump. Unfortunately, we missed a couple of these signs when driving and our heads paid for it. haha

Goodness, I don't even know where to begin with this trip. We weren't sure if we were going to drive straight to Oaxaca (which is about a 12 hour drive) or stop in Puebla to sleep a bit. After getting rather misdirected in Mexico City because of construction and finally getting to Puebla at about 2am or so, we decided it was best to stop. Let me just say this, it was agreed upon (and reconfirmed by Jorge) that Puebla is a miserable little town as far as we were concerned. We drove around until nearly 3:30am trying to find one of a couple hostels to stay at and never could find them. The streets were impossible to find, with the numbers all out of order (for example Calle 3 was followed by Calle 8, which was followed by Calle 5 and so on). Eventually we came across a motel that looked inexpensive and that offered personal garages. We drove in and spoke to the attendant who informed us that they only rent out their rooms for 4 hours at a time (uh...yeah), but that he would let us stay until 10am. We decided to take him up on it and got 2 rooms. Let's just say that, while the rooms were very clean and nice, there were various details that confirmed the purpose of a room that is only rented in 4 hour increments.

We decided to try and leave by about 9am and ended up leaving around 9:30 (hey, we're in Mexico...that's close enough). We found a place to have breakfast and I discovered the best thing about Puebla, what I affectionately call "pot o' queso." Mmmm, it was delish! Puebla also had a pretty impressive volcano that we saw on our way out (which also took about an hour).

Once we navigated our way out of (I would really love to insert a Spanish swear word here because the alliteration is brilliant, but I shall refrain) Puebla we were enthusiastically on our way to Oaxaca. Mexico has an interesting highway system. You have your choice of either a longer, but free, highway or a more efficient highway with tolls. Our preference was the toll road so that we could take advantage of our time in Oaxaca, but somewhere along the way we must have taken the free one. It ended up being a beautiful drive (which I will only link to a photo or two here and you can look at others at your leisure).

We finally arrived in Oaxaca at around 4:30 or 5pm and went straight to a vegetarian restaurant that Marthese had in her guidebook. It was a great little place that had this posh spa attached to it where Lily got a massage. While there, Lily saw a poster for Lila Downs, who my Spanish professor had just introduced to us in class that week. She was in town that weekend doing concerts on Saturday and Sunday so we decided to go if we could manage it.

After our dinner we set out on another quest for yet more elusive hostels. Our problem this time was not finding the streets, but finding a place that offered parking or that still existed. We were hoping to find a place in el centro but gave up after about another hour and a half long hunt and turned into the driveway of a hotel we saw just to check it out. They offered us a deal that ended up working out to about $15/person per night which we couldn't pass up.

The next morning we got up in time to be ready for a tour bus that we had set up the night before that took us to some pyramid ruins, similar to Teotihuacan but smaller and more beautiful. We had an awesome guide, Raul, who made sure that I could see as much as possible. The site was up in the hills and provided some incredible views of Oaxaca. Here is a shot of our little group that Raul was nice enough to take (nice framing I might add).

After the ruins we made our way to el centro to see what we could find (which we hoped would include food and tickets to the concert that night). Oaxaca is a state that has a lot of political turmoil, which produces all kinds of fascinating tagging. Here are just a few of them: one calling for the assassination of the Governor one calling for justice for those that have died for the cause of an activist group called APPO one calling for liberty for political prisoners (and also including the symbol for anarchy).

We ended up finding a yummy restaurant to eat at, where I got mole, a specialty of Oaxaca. Afterward, we tried for the concert tickets again and Marthese and Lily ended up having to go get them while Bridgid and I got to explore el centro a bit. We saw preparations for el día de los muertos (Day of the Dead). I'm not sure what these sand creations are called, but they were pretty rockin'. Perhaps I will find out tomorrow (or I suppose later today considering the time).

Bridgid and I also found a cool little mezcal (like tequila but made from a different type of agave plant) shop where we sampled many different kinds of mezcal, roasted and salted grasshoppers, some sort of gusano (worm) and chile powder, and chocolate (for which Oaxaca is also famous). We actually had a lot of fun there talking with the shop keepers and trying new things.

Later that evening we were off to the Lila Downs concert!!! It was FANTASTIC! Lila Downs is an interesting person. I believe that one parent is Mexican and the other American. Her music is a nice combination of at times political and other times just for fun. Her performance was whimsical, with her dancing around the stage and playing with her long, thick braids adorned with yarn, passionate, and mournful. Her voice is amazing and she has an incredible range. The concert was a benefit for a local organization for indigenous women.

The next morning we got up early (a bit earlier than we had planned considering that we forgot to set our clocks back the night before) to go to a market for breakfast and have Marthese back to the hotel in time to meet her tour bus she was taking that day. Since we got up at about 5:30, thinking it was 6:30, we got to the market as people were still setting up. I think this is how we should all get to have breakfast everyday. The market had anything you could want: fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh breads and pastries, juice made right before your eyes, flowers, tamales, and tons of other non-food items. I settled on a tamale (why not?) and churros...Mmmmm! More great tagging at the market: Very rich the food of Oaxaca.

We got Marthese back to the hotel in plenty of time. She spent the day exploring Oaxaca more and has been traveling throughout the state of Chiapas all week by herself. Lily, Bridgid, and I headed on our way back. We arrived in Querétaro around 9am that night, after, of course, getting rather confused in Mexico City once again.

OK, whew, that's it for now but I am sure there will be more after this weekend since tomorrow is the big day for el día de los muertos. John and I are headed to a cemetery nearby and then probably to el centro for the evening. And only 2 more weeks of classes! Actually, I'm pretty sad about that, but the time is drawing near when I will be back in the States!

Love and miss you all!